🔗 Share this article The fashion icon Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s. An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 altered the path of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's electric 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D. "That time was the height of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness." While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a profound shift. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide." A Perceived Regression This regression is difficult to overlook: the rise of populist movements, the reaction against social awareness, and the return of traditional beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the late 90s, now a different political force appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of national pride, has become contentious again. For Enninful, the response has always been to celebrate culture in all its variety. This was the core philosophy behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of prominent faces from music. "People with a voice should employ it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this moment will end." A New Wave of Consciousness He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse implicit prejudice – I was not even aware what that was." The beginnings of his career would forge a trailblazing career characterised by boldness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Importantly, sales rose. "To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s commercially unwise," he states. Beyond the Magazine World He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since leaving his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor". "I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was brought up in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside." Defying the stereotype of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His life has included its share of adversity, including openly discussed periods of mental health and addiction. He has also undergone serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person." The Tate Britain Exhibition This determination to be defined narrowly has inspired him away from the world that established him. He is now putting together a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time. "The establishment sometimes neglected to celebrate the right artists because they did not have the right pedigree," he states. This project itself functions with a different approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a broader vision." Looking Forward Without Fear Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful industry leaders. His journey, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions. What would the younger Edward think of the Edward of today? He laughs heartily. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me." He adds. "I never take anything for granted. We fled, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."
An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 altered the path of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Discovered for modeling, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the London's electric 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, before turning twenty, becoming the fashion director of the publication i-D. "That time was the height of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be close. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness." While Enninful may seem nostalgic, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. However in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a profound shift. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide." A Perceived Regression This regression is difficult to overlook: the rise of populist movements, the reaction against social awareness, and the return of traditional beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the late 90s, now a different political force appears as a potential leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an emblem of national pride, has become contentious again. For Enninful, the response has always been to celebrate culture in all its variety. This was the core philosophy behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, showcasing a broad spectrum of prominent faces from music. "People with a voice should employ it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "Everyone talks about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it refused my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I believed in. I hope this moment will end." A New Wave of Consciousness He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse implicit prejudice – I was not even aware what that was." The beginnings of his career would forge a trailblazing career characterised by boldness and diversity. Enninful made history as the first male, first Black editor, first openly gay person, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured landmark covers showcasing Black models, curvy models, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Importantly, sales rose. "To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re failing to represent – it’s commercially unwise," he states. Beyond the Magazine World He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since leaving his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "disruptor". "I constantly interrogate the established norms. I was brought up in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we came to England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was incredibly timid. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside." Defying the stereotype of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His life has included its share of adversity, including openly discussed periods of mental health and addiction. He has also undergone serious health challenges, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a time of fear for two years, away from work, anxious I was going to lose my sight. It’s like PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I prayed, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person." The Tate Britain Exhibition This determination to be defined narrowly has inspired him away from the world that established him. He is now putting together a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he says, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and highlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time. "The establishment sometimes neglected to celebrate the right artists because they did not have the right pedigree," he states. This project itself functions with a different approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is one component of a broader vision." Looking Forward Without Fear Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful industry leaders. His journey, he believes, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions. What would the younger Edward think of the Edward of today? He laughs heartily. "He would be astonished, but he’d be impressed. In those days I was sceptical of institutions. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me." He adds. "I never take anything for granted. We fled, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have doubted me my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."